Right now, the Achille’s heel of the TI is the rust. The Flintstone effect is funny for a minute, but eventually seeing the road whiz by just inches from your toes — while not on a motorcycle — just leads to aggravation and a nagging feeling that the whole car is disintegrating beneath you. Because I have a long list of body-work projects in front of me, I figured I could spend some time learning the process by fixing the TI floors myself. It’s a win-win, since the repair can will be ugly but the net result positive. And maybe the repair won’t be *that* ugly.
I’m fortunate that my good friend Luigi has a lot of experience welding (and, coincidentally or not, also has a ratty old TI). He has loaned me his MIG welder, a big heavy vice, and a bunch of other very important welding peripherals, including an auto-darkening welding helmet. As for me, I bought a 4.5″ grinder, a sawzall, tin snips, gloves, a peen hammer, and a few other odds and ends. Body work requires a lot of accessorizing.
So here’s the before shot, after I’d taken out the seat and pulled away some of the plastic. By the way, the seat removal is not hard but not obvious either: you remove the outer bolts from under the car, and then slide the seat forward until it comes free from the center rail.

TI floor panel. It's hard to see here but there's a softball-sized hole at the front right.
And the rear:

TI floor rear. A tiny hole is just visible behind the central seat belt mount.
My first order of business was to strip this mess down to metal and see what was really going on. I should have expected it, but of course the rust was worse than even these photos show. There must be a rule of thumb, like for each visible square inch of rusted out metal, multiply by x. In my case, x is about 10.
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